Finding Unique Parts and Fabrics

I often like to make only a few items of clothing out of a length of fabric to encourage variety in the range which I create. This variety can be hard to find in high street shops since they all stock a similar range of fabrics and buttons. Don't take that as a declaration to condemn all shops which stock regular fabrics, as they can quite often get fabric in for you, or send you in the direction of that difficult to find colour of silk or that particular style of buttons.

There is however a lot to be said for thrift and charity shops. I have found many beautiful items of clothing that not only would I happily wear, but more importantly that I can steal the buttons off. Prices are by nature low and often it's worth buying a garment just to adapt or take things off of it. Be careful though that even though some beautiful lengths of fabric may be available in thrift and charity stores, be mindful that the amount they have is IT. There will most likely be no restock of that fabric, so make sure for definite that there is enough to complete the project you want.

Often, auctions can also hold the answer if you are looking for unusual fabrics and parts such as buttons. They can also be the key to finding new inspiration and ideas, and often vintage clothing. You can find specialised clothing auctions on line and by contacting local auction houses. Bargains do appear quite frequently but don't get too carried away by pretty things!

Choosing 'THE ONE' (pattern choices!)

So you've found thirty thousand gorgeous dress patterns online and in shops and you're all eager to start stitching away on your entire summer wardrobe for yourself and every member of your friends and family! Hold your horses, here's a quick list of things to consider when deciding which dress to start with:

• Difficulty: It can be quite easy to find the most beautiful, most perfect dress ever and fall so head over heels in love with it that you forget that you've only been sewing for five minutes. take time to consider the difficulty of the project before jumping in and slicing fabric.
• Fabric Cost: Another important thing to consider is the price of the fabric you want to use, and how difficult it is to sew. For example, even though satin can come quite cheaply, it can be the biggest pain to sew. If you are on a tight budget, or you are inexperienced with sewing the type of fabric that the pattern calls for, maybe reconsider the project and wait until you have more money or experience. There is nothing worse than making a dress and spending hours on it, then not being able to afford to go anywhere to show it off!
• Preference: Do you really like this project? Or do you just love it on first sight but after closer inspection, dislike the project a little? Make sure before you start a project that it isn't just a case of getting a new pattern and being excited about it. I have lost so much time (and money!) to starting projects through excitement and not actually wanting them. I regret not putting my attention into the older patterns I had that were even more lovely!

It boils down to just picking the right project, on these factors and the other large factor, TIME. Do you have enough time to make this project, and enough time to wear/use it? Try organising your patterns against difficulty and time, so a pattern can be quickly selected and eventually you'll work your way through the list of fantastic and beautiful creations!

Review of Simplicity 9769

I purchased this pattern via eBay a week or two ago in view of making the corset from it after seeing it being recommended in several corset books. It is supposed to be a nice and easy pattern to follow for making beginners corsets so I thought it would be worth a go.

Upon receiving the pattern, I had a look through the instructions and in true simplicity style they were simple to understand and lovely to work with. Extra instructions were given for if you were using a pattern fabric. This is particularly useful but as I will be using a plain fabric, not a lot of use for me. For those of you who have not ever used a Simplicity pattern before, there are really helpful diagrams of where to place your pieces onto the fabric for the most economic use of the fabric. This is very useful if you only have a small amount of fabric, such as the remains from a previous project.

The patterns goes together easy enough, with the list of materials on the packet being accurate enough to even tell you what length bones to use. Please visit my previous post on boning and its selection for more detailed information on the pros and cons of buying boning at predetermined lengths. Overall, I think this pattern sticks to true Simplicity form and is easy to work with and a pleasure to sort out!

Sourcing Bones

This sounds far much more like a history post than a sewing post. Project Corset is going to start in the next week or two, and so now I'm sourcing the appropriate pieces to make the corset shown in the photograph above. The packets lists even the length of bones so that they can be bought from companies who cut types of bones like steel to size. This is an advantage as you don't have to faff around with cutting the bones yourself if you choose to use steel. Bare in mind that they can be more expensive than buying them in one length and taking the time to cut them to the correct length yourself.

For my corset project, I am going to attempt to make a double layer corset, with a thick jersey-type fabric on the inside and a strong taffeta on the outside, left over from a project that I have recently finished. Using old materials for a project is a fantastic idea, as if you do it wrong, you can make adjustments and sort it out before committing to that fabric that you really love. I recommend starting with an easy soft boning too, so you can get used to working with the stuff.

Now, corset kits are available, but the price does not differ too greatly from buying all the parts individually. Busks and lacing bones (if you chose to use them) are often quite expensive, but you pay for quality when it comes to these things. Handmade corsets can retail for anything above £150 each, up to the dizzy heights of £400 for a handmade to measure corset by some independent traders. Bare this in mind when you are trying to justify £45 on materials.

For good corset supplies try VenaCave Designs and Sew Curvy corset kits.

What a Charming Notion, Eminently Practical and Yet Appropriate as Always

Recently I completed my first large project (Simplicity Steampunk Pattern) and I enjoyed it. It took me roughly 25 hours including tea breaks and faffing about taking photos here and there. This project has inspired me to do two things at some point this year.

The first thing which it has inspired me to do in branch out into corset making. The simplicity pattern included a boned bustier. I had never worked with bones or anything even almost that complicated-looking ever before, and it was a pleasure to make. I am obscenely proud of it, even though it refuses to photograph properly. This learning curve has made me find someone who wants a handmade corset and will happily cover materials, so that project will no doubt be documented here over the next few weeks, along with market coverage etc.

The second thing that it has inspired me to do is to create the outfit above, for myself or a customer. It is a beautiful outfit, so very lovely. I plan on researching what it was made out of for the film, and try to find appropriate materials which I imagine will be a thick, printed cotton. I have no idea how I will find an appropriate pattern, I may have to adventure into making my own from existing patterns and my own intuition. I am also considering changing a few parts of it slightly to make it a little more wearable, since it looks like it'd be a pain to wear for anything more than about an hour.

I will take lots of pictures and update regularly as to how both these projects are going, along with photographs and reviews of the things I use during the projects, and how we get on at trading events, of course!

Having the Guts to Quit Work and Do What You Want.

So, I abandoned a VERY bad job to go into seamstress work and into making things happen for the business. As much as I hated working until 4am in a freezing cold room with no entertainment, being harassed by drunks and yobs, a wage is a wage, wherever it comes from.

Leaving work was a hard choice and was thought through for ages until my Auntie told me to leave. She didn't ask, she told me. And it was the best thing I have done so far for my own health and happiness, and Ava's Apparel.

Granted, there have been times where I look at my bank account and sigh, since some times I can't afford to do anything at all. Then I am often reminded how much I love being able to work on my own terms, for my own money, and not have to faff about working shifts around other people. Working for yourself is not all that it's advertised to be, but it is also so much more.

Don't just tell your boss to shove it on the basis that you wanna sew a little bit now and again. Make a plan, be it business plan or personal plan. Make sure you know what you are entitled to, and stick with it. Any self-employed seamstress will tell you that working for yourself is a really difficult thing to do.

The most difficult thing is remaining motivated throughout the process. I myself get a bit lazy once a project is done, since after all, I've just achieved a thing! It can be really hard getting yourself noticed and getting your stuff out there. Apply for as many markets and things as you can handle without stretching yourself too thinly, and introduce yourself by handing out your cards in local sewing shops, and to the general public.

Overall, if you can get it going and your heart is really set on it, go for it.

How To Make a Simple Skirt.

It's been a while since I wrote any kind of how-to type article anywhere on the internet, so thought I would write this one on how to make a very VERY simple skirt. It can be completed by even the newest seamstress and is a good basis to start.

Firstly, take measurements of your (or the recipient of the skirt's) waist, hips and how long the skirt needs to be. I tend to stop just below my knee for the length of the skirt measurement as then by the time that hems and seams have been sewn, it falls just above the knee.

Secondly, chose you fabric. I lean towards cottons and light, girly fabrics as they are easy to work with. You'll need roughly a meter of fabric, at a 150cm drop. This will give you enough to fix any mistakes too, or make matching accessories! Also consider any trim you'd like to include, such as lace on the bottom hem or from the waistband.

Now the construction starts. Create a waistband from a length of the fabric, about 20cm deep by your waist measurement (plus about 6cm) long. At this stage, interfacing can be applied to the wrong side of the fabric to give the waistband more strength. Fold the waistband in half right sides together, and then sew into a long tube, leaving one end open so that the waistband can be turned through itself. Once the waistband has been sewn iron it flat and place it to one side.

Cut the remaining fabric straight across, at the depth of however long you'd like the skirt to be. Using your own fair hands (and a needle and thread!) begin to stitch and gather along one of the long edges of the skirt, until it is the same length as your waistband. Leave the other long edge untouched. Once gathered, tie off the thread and lay the main skirt fabric out and place the waistband so that the bottom line of the waistband lines up just below the top line of the skirt, right sides together. Pin in place, and sew together. Once sewn, it should start to look like a skirt!

Now it's just a case of folding the skirt into a skirt shape (around itself, right side to right side) and sewing up the two ends. Leave a gap at the top to insert a zip of a complementary colour which can be picked up in most sewing shops or for mere pennies online. Once you've sewn in a zip, hem the bottom edge. Et Voile!

If you chose to use lace, include it in the hem sewing. Place it on top or underneath the skirt once the hem has been pinned into place, then pin the lace in the correct place as well. Sew in a complementary colour thread to give a professional look.

In the end, you will get something that looks quite a lot like this:

Whistle While You Work...

Okay, well maybe not whistle but definitely sing along loudly! Singing and shouting and getting into music whilst sewing really helps time fly and makes large or long projects a bit more pleasurable. Here is a short list of my favourite bands to while away the hours with:

The Men That Will Not Be Blamed For Nothing.

A fantastic band who claim to be putting the punk into steampunk, and believe me, they really do. Check them out on youtube, they combine facts and knowledge with rock and guitars!

Mr B The Gentleman Rhymer

A cheery and summery artist, Mr B rhymes (not raps!) about current events, social hierarchy and cricket, all whilst playing his banjolele. Good for background listening when hand-sewing.

I can also highly recommend the website last.fm. You can sign in with your facebook account, and listen to a wide range of music, with options to even listen to music similar to other bands you like. Really like Erasure? Pick the Erasure channel to hear a range of other bands who have a similar sound. Check it out, it's good.

Today's Accomplishments

Today I mostly finished the jacket for the Simplicity pattern reviewed earlier in the blog. It still needs sleeves installing, but this morning it was a half-cut mess on my workshop floor so I am fairly pleased with it. Other photographs of the jacket and of the rest of the outfit can be found on the facebook page.

It was quite easy to follow the instruction even though I was faced with almost a dozen different parts which all looked oddly the same. There were a few sections of the instructions that were a little bit hard to understand, but I got through them after two or three rereads. I would highly recommend the pattern, and the jacket.

How To Make a Sewing Box

Inspired by the blog 'How About Orange?', follow these simple instructions to make a sewing box in an afternoon. Having made a project similar to this in the past, I can highly recommend this project to work on with children who want to be part of your sewing adventures or as a great gift for someone who wants to start their own.

You will need:

• Hardcover book (ring binder optional) Note: If you would like to store spools of thread, you’ll need a book at least 2" thick. A ring binder helps create extra compartments but is not necessary to complete the project.
• 12" x 12" sheet of decorative paper, to line the inside cover (optional)
• 4' length of 2" ‑ 6" wide, ⅛"‑thick balsa wood
• Acrylic paint (to coordinate with book)
• An old sewing pattern, to line the compartments
• ⅛ yard cotton fabric (to coordinate with book)
• Fiberfil

The instructions can be found here in full, and a short version of the instructions can be found below.

1. Remove the pages of the book.
2. Cover the inside of the book (I used really pretty paper I found in a stationary shop, gave me an excuse to buy it!)
3. Measure and mark your compartments.
4. Make outer box.
5. Make and assemble the compartments.
6. Make pin cushion.

To do this project with children, I've found the best way to to make the compartments, glue it all together so it's secure and then let the little sweethearts run wild!

Ways To Get Noticed!

So, you've started sewing, you really love it, and you've decided that this is what you want to do.

Now it's time to get yourself noticed. Start a Facebook page for your work, and get everyone you possibly can to share the page with their friends. Facebook even gives you statistics for who is looking at your page, where they are from and all kinds of useful other information. It also gives you a really good idea on which areas of your work people really like and which are less popular by giving you graphs to show just how popular posts and photos are.

Approach a local sewing school and see if you can help during one of their classes, or set up your own. Offering a service is a good way to not only put your skills to good use, but increase the word of mouth for you and your work! It can be as easy as offering to help a local sewing club out or even renting a village hall and setting up your own club or classes. Make sure it is well advertised if you do your own public classes.

Get yourself noticed by posting on forums for sewing and for your particular theme (for example, home ware) to increase the traffic flow onto your website/facebook. Ask friends who also have business or 'Like' pages to give you a quick mention. Also make sure to cross reference, such as mentioning your blog on Facebook. There is nothing wrong with a little self-promotion!

How to Get Inspired

Inspiration is a hard thing to come by, some days. Granted, some times you are brimming with all the enthusiasm and good ideas in the world, but other days can be slow.

I have found two or three really good ways to go from clueless to clued in:

1. Stop: Stop thinking, stop working and stop putting so much pressure on yourself. Take a seat, grab a cuppa and calm down. Research the sort of thing you'd like to make on the internet, to help the creative juices start to flow.
2. Mood Boards: I used to hate being made to do mood boards at school, but have recently recognised just how valuable they can be. A mood board is a collection of photos, images, descriptions, fabric samples and other inspirational things glued or pinned to a board, in one mash of subject area. They are useful for getting your mind in the right place for making. I personally have one mood board for the subject with which I'm working, such as waistcoats, then another just devoted to sewing for those days when I'm less enthusiastic.
3. Create a Lovely Place To Work: My work room has a huge window, which I always keep open, along with speakers and photographs of people I've worked with or just really idolise. You'll be more likely to want to be in a place that's covered in beautiful things that interest you, and if you have to make a large project that involves lots of hours work, time seems to fly in a lovely environment. Just think about how much nicer it'd be to work in a field of flowers and not a dreary office? Same theory.

Oddly, I've found that having a drink to hand, and working in stages is the best way to be inspired. If you break down one project into 5 smaller ones, you get that sense of achievement at several intervals before the project is even complete. It also allows you to look objectively and see if a project can be improved.

Commercial vs. Free Patterns

In this comparison, I will be looking at the advantages and disadvantages of using commercial and free patterns.

Commercial patterns are often wonderful to work with, but can cost a chunk of the budget for a project if you don't source them properly. I often stalk eBay to be able to find used patterns, or patterns which have been ordered by mistake and are now unwanted. You can occasional find already cut and used patterns, which are often cheaper, on eBay, which saves you the task of cutting out if you can find it pre-cut in the appropriate size! The quality paper is usually really good, making working with the pieces a breeze.

Free patterns are just that, and often you get what you pay for. I've used some brilliant free patterns in the last year, and some terrible ones. They often come without instructions, which means you have to either figure it out for yourself or search the internet for decent instruction. However, if you sort of know what you're doing with a project, free patterns can be a lovely challenge and very useful. I use them often as a teaching aid, as they are reprintable once cut, and an unlimited supply of the same pattern is great! These patterns print from your home printer, so the quality of the pattern paper is whatever paper you print on, and the quality of lines is also down to your printer and its settings.

Essentially, printed free patterns are lovely if it's a small or simple project such as an unlined waistcoat, but if you want to make anything large and elaborate I'd highly recommend using a commercial pattern and making adjustments so it suits your needs.

The Basics of Corset Building Review

'A handbook for beginners...'

This book, by Linda Sparks, is a very neat introduction to your first built corset. It outlines everything in a smooth and easy to understand manner, including even comparisons of types of boning and suggestions when to use them.

Having little to no experience in making corsets, I found this book via Amazon. It has mixed reviews, but I thought I'd try it anyway just to give myself some brief background knowledge. This book is in no way a history of corsets, as some customers seemed to think it would be. It is however, a lovely companion guide to consult whilst working with patterns, and even provides a chapter on how to fit an existing corset to a person, which is particularly handy.

The book has several photographs and lots of information, which makes it easy to follow. It also involves a chapter just on how to put together the corset once everything is prepared, down to handy hints and tips on how to make the best of of various techniques.

There is also mentions of different suppliers throughout the book, as well as suggestions as to which commercial patterns are useful for beginners to use. This is good as it creates a starting point for sourcing your own suppliers in your area as many people prefer not to buy things from over-seas.

Overall, I would highly recommend this book to any beginner, as it is a lovely companion guide which is easy to interpret even at a glance.

Fabric-world.com Supplies Review

In the past few weeks, I've ordered and received a lot of stuff from this online company. I thought that it deserves a review for this reason.

I accidentally stumbled up on this website whilst doing a very generic search for fabrics and wholesale zips. It was difficult to find zips appropriate for the skirts I make, until I found this website. There was a fantastic range of colours and types, and the prices were brilliant. I obtained 100 black 8inch zips for £15 including post and packaging. The website was also easy to use, allowing you change the quantity of any item in your basket on most pages of the website, not just at check out.

Impressed by the quality of the zips and speed of delivery, I was happy to try some of their fabrics. Buying fabrics online can be a risky business, because factors such as screen settings and the settings of the camera which was used to take the photos can distort the true colour of the fabric. I was understandable cautious, I ordered some satin for some cravats. It arrived quickly as expected, and it was almost exactly the same as shown on the website. It was good quality satin and a fantastic deep colour.

I have since then ordered a number of other items for making projects, being impressed every time by the speed and quality of the website, delivery and fabric. Highly recommended.

Simplicity Pattern 2172 Review

Recently, I was approached by a customer to construct this pattern as the customer wanted something to make a grand entrance into the world of steampunk after attending an event. I have made many skirts over the last few years, but had not taken on a project so complicated before.

This outfit is comprised of a skirt, bustier and jacket.

The packet contained easy to follow instructions, with cutting instructions and quite a detailed list of things required to complete the pattern. The pattern was simple to follow in terms of cutting out, with every piece labelled with a number and a short title, which allowed them to be identified easily. The pattern also used various pieces multiple times, which was a relief when it came to the task of cutting out!

The pattern instructions were on the whole clear and concise which made tasks like installing boning in the bustier much easier than I had expected. The experience of putting together the bustier has actually encouraged my want to make custom corsets within Ava's Apparel. The skirt instructions were also a pleasure to follow. The coat was a little fiddly to construct in places, but nothing too terrible if you have a little experience with patterns or jackets.

Overall, I was very impressed with this pattern, it made the whole project a breeze, coming in just under the 30 hour mark including ironing and cutting the pattern. See photos of the project during and after construction at:

http://www.facebook.com/avasapparel

Introduction to Ava's Apparel!

Welcome, one and all, to the blog site for Ava's Apparel!
As many of you will already know, Ava's Apparel presents a range of handmade items made by steampunks for steampunks. Run by myself, Ava's Apparel offers made to measure clothing from simple cravats and accessories through to entire outfits. I have been on the steampunk scene for several years and can relate and interpret all ideas for the perfect steampunk attire, making it for you at a very resonable price. My current range includes both floor length and mini bustle skirts, mens and womens waistcoats and a range of cravats. I specialise in outfitting the younger steampunk, mixing modern styles like shorter skirts with the class and futurism of steampunk.
REVIEWS: "It’s not often these days that you find someone both as tremendously talented and wonderfully willing to help as I’ve found Ashleigh-Ellan (better known as her steamy pseudonym Ava of Ava’s Apparel) to be. When I found her page through Facebook I instantly fell in love with the cute twist she has put on traditional steampunk clothing and the professionalism which she shows in her work. The first item I bought from her was a black and white striped bustle skirt, which I have worn to college on many occasions and for a few nights out – there’s not a single sign of wear on it, despite having had drinks and food spilled down it and being washed multiple times. The shape makes it incredibly easy to iron and I can wear it with almost anything, it truly is a remarkable piece of clothing! Because of this, first thing atop my Christmas list this year was the limited edition news print bustle, which I have been informed from the mother who bought me it that it came well in time for Christmas, pressed and folded and ready for wear. The prices are incredibly low for such brilliant craftsmanship and the lady herself is an absolute pleasure to speak to. For any and all of my steampunk needs, I will be going straight to Ava’s Apparel."