Intertexuality

Intertextuality is using one piece of work to provide context for another. An object, be it a piece of art, a garment or even a person is given meaning by its creator. There are other theories in that the context of the piece is given by the viewer.
Context and intercontextuality are important as they are what define for the viewer the overall message of what they are seeing. This can be played straight, such as a nun wearing a habit and a crucifix, or it can be used to askew social norms and make bold statements, such as artists like Madonna or Lady Gaga wearing the same items, Items and garments are given meaning by the situation that they are placed in and the other visual or sensory cues that they are partnered with.
Intertextuality is important in all aspects of life and is used regularly in fashion. It has been used famously by many celebrities often by incorporating controversial slogans or religious objects in the way that they dress. It has also been used to make a statement in a similar way by designers from the last few decades. This act of using a object in a way that it isn't meant, or by adding to it, for example the way the Sex Pistols shook up the image of the Queen, can be a political, religious, or just plain rebellious statement on the part of the individual or the designer.
Another theme that has arisen from the theory and use of intercontextuality is bricolage. Bricolage is essentially taking a selection of mismatched styles and using them in such a way that it creates a suitable ensemble. For example, steampunks mix the grittier side of punk with the elegance, beauty and clothing design of the Victorian Era. On paper, these two styles don't work together particularly well, with each being the overall antithesis of the other but through the use of clever styling and an understanding of context, amazing outfits are put together. This act of mixing styles and removing aspects from one to another is also a way of making a statement, this further removal of the subculture from the socially acceptable norm. 
I'm a great believer in the theory that nothing is every original. Everything we do, everything we think, everything we design and create is made from influences around us. The author Austin Kleon published a book entitled 'Steal Like an Artist' and it details how influence is all around us and how we should note other people's work in regards to not it's overall quality as a piece, but breaking it down into factors that we like and dislike and then go on to use the factors that we enjoy or approve of in our own work.

Fashion and Status and Gender Identity (A Rant!)

Regarding a recent lecture at University:

This lecture made me really, oddly passionate. Due to my own personal beliefs, the subject of status and women is really interesting. After watching the advertisement videos and assessing them, it's quiet clear that the marketing of fashion really does escalate the feelings of status anxiety detailed by A. de Botton. I believe this phenomenon of social anxiety is used against women far too heavily in modern culture.

In previous years, status was achieved by marrying into a well-to-do family and almost entirely all status was handed down through the family to the men or given by your occupation. It is still like this to an extent and an example of this can be seen in how people respond to what degree you have chosen to study. For example, you are judged to be more intelligent and studious if you are doing a law degree than if you are studying a performing arts degree. Previously, this need for acceptance and status was barely noticeable but since the beginning of mass media and fast, efficient networking abilities, the pressure really is on both genders to be the happiest, fittest, healthiest and best dressed individual the world has ever seen.

In this instance, fashion and advertising is being used as a control mechanism, to force men and especially women into the right mental state of unhappiness and dissatisfaction to spend money they don’t have on things that they don’t need.

“We spend money that we do not have, on things we do not need, to impress people who do not care.” 
― Will Smith

However, from the early Victorian era, fashion has been a way to express status and control people. The corset is a prime example of this. It was a way to show that a lady was the correct socially-acceptable shape and held the right qualities to be a woman worth marrying, but it was also a way to supress their sexuality and in some case even caused them proper physical harm. There are recorded cases of young women being forced into corsets by social convention and pressure, to then find that in their later years they are so disfigured due to prolonged restriction of their bodies whilst growing that they could never be without the corset again.

I think that all of this is ridiculous. Women should be allowed to be women, and judged not by how they look but by their own individual merit. I would much rather be remembered and respected not for the fact my hair looks perfect or I’ve somehow finally achieved the pore-less, flawless look that I’m bombarded with every day, but for my contribution to my field or who I am as a person.

In the presentation, I particularly liked the slide about cross-stich and swearing, as I have a very similarly themed tattoo. 

First Week at Huddersfield Uni

Good evening you lot!

Ava's Apparel HQ has moved away to Huddersfield! As of last Monday, I'm officially studying for a degree in Fashion Design with Production and Marketing. So far, it's been a wonderful experience, I've met like-minded people regarding fashion but also a handful of my other interests. I've had to condense my studio down enough to fit into my uni room, but what with living alone now with no television the turn-around times on the ETSY store are significantly improved.

I've recently also upgraded all of my pattern drafting and cutting items in the studio, so I can explore further and be more adventurous with my designs. The extensive university library has books on how to improve the business, but also is choc full of historical patterns from which I can take drafts to produce my own versions (both straight from the originals or adjusted to my own design!)

Speaking of the business, not only are there new FEZ options in store available now, I'm currently on a 3 day turn around time AND if you use the code UNI25 at checkout, you get 25% off your order to celebrate my first week of university!

https://www.etsy.com/uk/shop/AshleighEllan

Half Way Review!

Well, June already.

Just a quick update, and an apology for disappearing a bit! This year has been going well, and is a marked improvement on sales this time last year. I've mainly been working on waistcoats for customers and extra ones to add to the etsy store. Some of you may have seen them already. They mainly include a forest green waistcoat with a military feel, a very military-looking red dinner waistcoat and a TARDIS/Dr Who themed waistcoat lined with tan satin, featuring a pocket especially for your sonic screwdriver.

I have at least two book reviews to upload, one on general sewing and pattern drafting, and one on the History of Fashion. I've also been studying hard to come up with outfits for myself for Weekend at the Asylum in September. So far I have a couple of ideas floating around that I'd like to explore but nothing substantially solid.

I've missed you all!

TECHNICAL DIFFICULTIES: Facebook

Afternoon all!

Right, let's catch up! Due to being hacked on my personal account, I can't access the Ava's Apparel facebook page! I can share to it, but it won't let me load the page directly. It'll get sorted asap, but for now a quick update on the current projects:

Steampunk Poison Ivy: 
Just the soft boning to put in and then the ivy to stitch on, and it's ready to go.

ESTIMATED COMPLETION:  Tuesday, to be posted Tuesday afternoon.

Pink Little Girls Dress:
Completed, on it's way and should have either arrived by now or turn up in the next few days. Our post service is terrible, so shout if it doesn't arrive.

White Leather Waistcoat:
Best priced leather in white I can find is available after the first week of April, so I will order that on the 5th and get it made as soon as it arrives.

EC: Second week of April, possibly before then.

Once again, apologies for the technical difficulties, apparently someone else wanted to try and be me and just couldn't deal with it! Hope everyone is alright.

Steampunk Poison Ivy: Pre-Fancy Bits

Gosh I've been busy recently! Real Job is becoming a demand on my time, which hasn't left me much for blogging. I promise to God I've been sewing, not just dossing about on forums and napping like a cat in the sunshine. I may have had a day or two playing in the snow though!

I've just about got the SPI outfit done and dusted, bar the plastic ivy stitched on around the top and around the waist. The shorts close with press-studs, and  the bodice closes with hooks and eyes at the back. It is currently un-boned, since the lady for whom it is intended will be wearing it for partying, and nothing ruins a night out like being constricted and feeling your ribs push into your lungs! It wouldn't be quite that bad, but it's definitely a comfort thing. Darts for shaping have since been added to the front of the bodice.

The back of the bodice features a hook and eye closure, and is made of a dark green satin. It's lined which should make it relatively comfortable. The pins in the side are there to help keep its shape on the hanger, since my poor mannequin was too chunky to model the outfit! The edges of the bustle are unfinished, since I think it fits in nicely with the poison ivy plant element. All other edges have since been finished with appropriate bias binding, all ironed neatly and packaged up.

Another post in all it's completely finished splendor (possibly even including customer photographs) will come at a later date!

Mood Board: How to

I hate mood boards.

Mood boards are for a point of reference and inspiration. They should show the key elements of your design ideas identified through your research. I hate them, I can't ever make them look right, until recently!

To complete a mood board, it involves a few basic steps:

• Gather your research: Research your subjects and themes, and use mind-maps to identify your favourite aspects about them.
• Once you've found your favourit ebits and pieces, use images and text to represent them visually. Mood boards are all about the visuals.
• A tip given to me by my tutor was to decorate the background in an appropriate style. Below is the mood board I've done for my jacket, and how it evolved from a bit dull into a really effective piece of inspirational work!

 This is my first mood board. I always do three or four test runs where I play about with the configuration of the images and text for the best possible aesthetic layout. I photograph them as I go to make sure I can remember what went where. I also try different background colours and different style depending on what is appropriate for the work I'm doing.

It's useful because now even if I move onto other project and back to that one, I can easily get inspired and into the right frame of mind. It's also a great tool for explaining to clients and audiences exactly what you are trying to achieve with your final piece of work.
I now do mood boards not just for official works, but for things I like and ideas I have for the future. Pinterest is a great way to collect images as you go, before selecting the best from them for your final board.

This is the final mood board for my Culture Vulture project. Please note how much better it is than my first preferred layout and style. The design work in the background really makes the images and text stand out, and the way that things are grouped together gives a sense of context. I like the images I chose in the end, after running through almost 35 different ones. There is no limit to the number of images or captions you can have, you could also include fabric samples and particular findings that you find appealing. 

Culture Vulture: A New Project

I got my new brief yesterday for my college course! The final piece is a jacket, but there are no definitive rules for it.

The research criteria are that you investigate three different styles or eras then create your designs from this research. I've chosen Teddy Boys, Mods/Rockers and Military Mess Uniforms. This gives me a wide range of different fabrics, styles, techniques and looks to work with as well as a range of aspects for interetsing surface manipulation details, such as adding studs or medal ribbons and braiding.

So far, I've got a few ideas which are mainly based around a mens military jacket in red with black and gold detailing. I was considering a jacket belonging to someone with a particularly high rank as they tend to be the most fun to look at. A photograph of a 1871 officers jacket is my current favourite source of information as it's the most gorgeous red and is so elaborate.

I'm trying to find a suitable host for an online portfolio, so that I can store all my work digitally. As soon as I get that sorted I will be sure to post a link for you all!

Tea Dress, Inspiration

AshFoxyKavanagh sent you this page:

Android tablet: Pros and Cons

Evening and welcome to my first blog post from my Android tablet. As a creative tool, I can highly suggest getting one, but as a tool for admin, it is not as wonderful.
I love being able to just get it out and have a whole range of colours and brushes at my disposal but typing takes an age. I do like being able to upload straight to my online portfolio though.
In short, gorgeous piece of design kit, but not a complete replacement for the trusty laptop.

How To: Men's Suit Jacket to Women's Blazer

How to turn a men's suit jacket into a women's blazer. It's a lot less scary than it sounds.

I've been putting this project off for a while now due to being a busy lady with a job, college and customers so it's just been waiting for me to have an impromptu day off. I was given this suit jacket by a friend of mine along with a herringbone winter coat. I was told to sell on the coat, but I had to do something for myself with the jacket. I am quite a little lady but with odd proportions (large chest and hips, small waist and a grand total of 5" tall!) so almost every jacket I buy needs to be altered at least a little bit. I love suit jackets, but never find one that fits well. I thought this jacket I had been gifted would be the perfect one to tailor to my exact needs.

So, the goals I wanted to achieve:

1. Make it shorter, so the jacket stops just below my waist. This means it'd look nice with a shirt and jeans as well as the occasional dress! 
2. Make the sleeves permanently folded. This involves making them shorter so that there is not so much bulk at the elbows.
3. Possibly take out the shoulder padding, but I think I like the quite feminine shape mixed with the square shoulder.

 This is how the jacket started out. I tried it on to get a feel of what it was I wanted to change. As you can see, it's already shaped nicely around the waist which means I will not have to take it to pieces to take it in at the sides like I would if the lines were straight. If you needed to do this, you'd open an inside lining seam and turn the jacket inside out, mark the adjustments to the shape you wanted, stitch then turn it all the right way round again before sewing the lining back up. It's essentially the last three or four steps of the Waistcoat post about working with a lined garment. I marked on the jacket where I wanted it to come to a stop, just about on my hips. After making with chalk, I cut carefully making sure it was level all the way round. I was careful to keep the pocket linings intact as I cut close to them, so as not to add more jobs to the list. This jacket is also brilliant in that it features a lot of top stitching so the actual sewing work on this jacket will be a breeze! Once I had adjusted the length, the sleeves were looking a bit odd, so I decided to take them up as well. I measured from my shoulder seam to my elbow, then added 2 inches to create a 1 inch turn up. I like colour of the inside lining, but may change it out for some red at a later date, or maybe even some of the same leopard print as my upcoming wiggle dress. That's all the work that I had to do on this jacket so far, messing about with the idea of changing the shape of the shoulders a little, but I do like them padded and square.

Boyfriend Blazer from TopShop: £40

Men's suit jacket from a charity shop: £5ish
An afternoon and a new, well-fitted, spot-on jacket: Priceless.

Steampunk Poison Ivy: Part 1

The Steampunk Poison Ivy outfit is almost complete! Photos of the completed project will be in the last part of the SPI series!

So, let's start with the shorts. The customer provided me with her measurements, which I then used to draft out a pattern for the shorts. I've made shorts before, to the process was quite quick and simple. It was just a case of making sure there was an extension for closure on the front pieces but not on the back. I decided to do a split waistband, in black and green to tie in the bustle bit at the back. The edges on the bustle are unfinished, since I love how they look all frayed. 

Once the shorts and the front half of the waistband were cut out, I began the bustle section at the back of the shorts. Made of green satin, I cut twice the length I required by the depth of the fabric. This gives me plenty of fabric to work with. Using the gathering technique of two lines of stitches, I gathered the top edge to the right size of the back of the shorts. Once the top had been gathered, I used the same technique to gather up the bustle panel, offsetting the lines of gather each time.

In the next part, I'll be assembling the shorts, inserting the bustle panel and starting the bodice!

Steampunk Poison Ivy

Shortly after New Year, a customer contacted me with some reference photographs for a steampunk version of the character Poison Ivy. Hoping to start studying Production Costumes at Edinburgh at the end of the year, I gladly accepted the challenge.
The customer gave me photographs she'd found of other people's work and had high-lighted what she wanted changing and what she really loved about each one. Using this information, we worked on a design sketch. In the end, all we did was change the shades of green involved in the piece, and how the bodice fastens.

Photographs of the work will be uploaded once it's all complete, which should be in the next 10 days or so! Keep your eye out for updates.