Make This Look: The Baba-blue Dress COMPLETED!

And here is it, in its beautiful tartan glory. It's soft and comfortable and in a messy bedroom! (I promise that at a later date, I'll take some better photographs when I get some time!

I was right, making this dress was definitely the correct thing to do. I am really happy with it. I used poppers instead of buttons which has made it really easy to wear. I stopped about 6 inches above the hem but at some point I'll add a few more poppers to make it fasten all the way to the bottom. I'm also not too pleased with how the bodice is shaped so I'll be adding some ribbon to create a waist belt like the inspiration dress had, by sewing ribbon into the darts. The collar could use some stiffener, but for the first attempt in what is likely to be MANY versions of this dress, I love it. Here's just the dress:

It looks quite school girl or uniform-like, so I might have to make some adaptations to fix that. I'd like to sort a version with essentially a really heavily gathered skirt so I can wear a petticoat underneath too! Undecided as to whether or not to make these in sizes to sell, or keep them as a commission only option for customers, since I'm sure others will love it as much as I do!

The next version will be in tweed and burgundy, and will be made before my next trip to Edinburgh in February so you'll all have to wait with baited breath!

Inspiration, Pinterest and Mugler

Inspiration is the key to most creative pursuits and can be found in many places. I like to use a combination of the outside world and other people's work as points for drawing inspiration.

The world really is a beautiful place, and it's easy to draw inspiration from it. As is well published in places all over the internet, I adore the city of Edinburgh. Despite being home to many people who are important to me, the colours of the city are wonderful. There are shades of stone and brick covered in an ooze of grey and black. The way that the evidence of industrial dust edges the bricks gave me oodles of inspiration toward my own works. Take notice of colours that occur in nature and the world that surrounds you, as they are often the most useful ones to use in collections and projects.

Another way of getting inspiration is studying the work of others in your field. In costumes and fashion, I am spoiled with a wealth of designers and illustrators of different varieties using different media and all getting different looks. This is another good time to mention Pinterest. All right, so it's also full of cookie recipes and a million things to do with empty toilet rolls, but it is also incredible for finding images that you like and storing them all in one place. I am currently a little bit obsessed with pin-up models and Vintage styles, and boy does that become apparent when browsing through my pages on Pinterest.
Looking at the work of others should be done in a critical way, not just an overall like of the piece. For example, a dress is not just a dress. A dress is a bodice and a skirt, it's sleeves or straps, it's thick hems, patterned fabric, plain fabric, odd colours, nice colours, bright, dark, rough, smooth... The list goes on and on forever. You can like a piece of work in so many ways, and identifying why you like it is a large chunk of coming up with your own ideas. For example, whilst looking for fashion illustrations, I stumbled upon a book about Thierry Mugler. It contained working drawings like this:

I fell instantly in love with the images, but for several reasons. I love the idea of distorting the models unrealistically to both shock the audience and display the details of the garment. I also really adore the impossibly tiny waists and massive 80's shoulders and hips. Identifying things like that is the best way to create your own work based on the influence of others. 

Don't think too hard.

Find things that you love and explore them.

Create your own work, don't carbon copy others.

Making Patterns: Reverse Engineering

I've been asked recently by several people to write about making and reading patterns. I sat and had a think about how I do it, and it took me ages to pinpoint since with an engineering background, a lot of the planning and drawing stages of garment construction are second nature. I thought it'd be useful to list how I go from a per-existing garment like a dress that I adore to a pattern that I can use again and again. There has been a little bit of pattern work in previous posts, so it might be worth a look back through the blog to have a check.

So, firstly, I like to place the existing garment on a dress form. If you don't have a dress form, you can make your own by putting on a loose fitting old t-shirt, then getting an assistant to wrap you up in duct tape, then cut you out of it all! Once it's on a dress form, carefully pin pattern paper (or tissue paper, or pattern tissue, or pieces of A4 taped together!) onto each panel of your garment along the hem to the next panel. Waistcoats tend to be three panels, and dress bodices tend to be three as well. Once you've pinned, carefully mark the panel edges, effectively tracing off the panel. Repeat for as many panels as the garment has, and then add seam allowances and make whatever adaptations you'd like, such as extra darts or less length.

Working from an existing pattern is simple, once you've had a practice. I started with a simple pattern for a 1950's dress, which took me an afternoon to make, even as an absolute beginner. When you open a commercial pattern, it has instructions with it that explain what all the marks and notes mean, and if it is a pattern that includes variations, it'll tell you which pieces you need to make what. Some patterns have a difficulty rating depending on the company that makes them and if they don't, I have always checked the reviews on the internet. Assuming you can understand basic sewing terms, you can use a commercial pattern with relative ease.

Got a question relating to patterns? Shout it out.

Freelance Work

I've only just started freelance work, but gosh do I love it! I love being able to sew someone else's work and get paid for it. I especially love how it expands my own portfolio in the process. If it hadn't been for sewing in Ava's Apparel and a mixture of freelance work in some form or another, my stitching portfolio would be teeny tiny!

Recently, I started using a website to manage my freelance side of things. It's pretty useful. You list your skills and update your portfolio of work then bid for jobs by offering quotes to others. So for example, a lady has just needed a seamstress for a shirt, I offered to do it at £8/hr which is my usual rate, and when she accepted it turned out she had ongoing work for me! If you include your price on your profile, buyers can also contact you. I had a lady contact me about children's jeans the other day, just because my price and skills were attractive. The method of personal message communication is easy and involves options at the side, so that invoices can be sent and paid really quickly, right from the message screen.

You can also place offers for hourlies, so I can sew your jeans up to the right length for £5 in 1 hour etc. It's a useful little earner too, from what I can gather.

The only downside really that I can see for freelance via websites is the 15% commission that they take. But then, for work that I wouldn't have had otherwise and things to add to my portfolio for getting into University, I can't really complain too much about that! I think in response to this, I'll just raise my hourly fee by 15%, and then I don't lose anything.

Want to have a go yourself?
The website in question is People Per Hour and it is a bit addictive, so watch out.

ModCloth and Vintage

That dress that I posted earlier, the ModCloth one. I can't stop thinking about it, I think I may have fallen in love. I've spent this afternoon cutting up patterns and fabrics to make my own version, and it's looking beautiful. There are only a few photographs so far, since I got a little bit carried away once I realised how devastatingly easy it is to put together such a cute dress. I also have a suspicious feeling that there may be 35 more in various colours and combinations over the next few months.

 The pattern that I worked with was a Simplicity one that came free by an absolute coincidence with a magazine, back when I could afford magazines. It's only half a dozen pieces, and they are all labelled really nicely. I enjoy working with  commercial patterns because they are often quick and easy to understand and make, so there isn't a great deal of mucking about between me and a brand new dress!

 There was a moment where I thought I might not have enough of my fabric of choice. The first plan was to make it all in black and white, until I started to hunt through my extensive fabric chest and stumbled upon this thick tartan that I thought would be perfect for Winter. There was just enough, I think there was about a meter and a half of it. I had to shorten the skirt pattern because I'm short, so the 30 inch skirt would have drowned my poor legs. I took it up to about 22 inches, with an inch for hem allowance.

 The bodice was easy to complete and the sleeves are a joy, look how adorable they are, all puffy and gathered. The skirt was also really easy, made of three pieces that you can gather separately or all together. The darts in the bodice give it a lovely shape and make my chest look brilliant. (What?! Isn't that the point, sometimes?!)

I am really getting into this whole vintage look recently, due to a love of strong, classically attractive women, pin-up and an easy life. I love how even though this dress covers the majority of my skin, it gives a great silhouette and allows the viewers mind to wonder! One of my idols once said:

'A dress makes no sense unless it inspires a man to take it off you.'

and this rings very true nowadays, with women who wear shorts no longer than their bum cheeks. Dressing like a lady has always been important to me, and the Vintage vibe is just another avenue to do that. Simple hairstyles have always appealed to me too.

I think once this dress is done, I'll invest in some tweed and some burgundy cotton for accents and really go for it.

Double Breasted Waistcoat: Part Two

So, I left you with the fabric cut out, and ready to be sewn together!

This is where it gets a little tricky. Sew all of the outer pieces together, a front piece to either side of the back piece. Once this is complete, sew one of the front linings to the front piece, making sure to have the right sides together. Next, stitch the remaining front and back lining together, and line up with the outer pieces, leaving the one seam between the first front lining and back open, like this:

Once you've stitched the lining to the outer, just turn it inside out, poke all the corners and iron it into the correct shape. Ironing at multiple stages during garment construction makes it look a lot better once complete. Stitch the shoulder seams, and close that gap inside using a top stitch but be careful only to stitch the lining. Line up and attach buttons and then bask in the warm glow of finishing a lined, double breasted waistcoat! Below are two photographs of the finished article and a fancy shot of the lapel/reveals.

Come on then, have you been following along? Show me yours!

Make This Look: The Baba-blue Dress

Absolutely besotted with this dress from Modcloth, so I was thrilled when I finally found a pattern that it would work from:

Isn't she beautiful? Well, as it turns out, one of the very first patterns that I ever got was the simplicity pattern needed to make one, before I'd even seen the dress. I'd condemned the pattern since the images on the packet were not very attractive, so it's been in a box for a year and a half. Funny how things change, eh. So today, after my long list of other jobs that I need to do, I'll be making one of these beauties in Black and Black and White Gingham. I love shirtdresses, and I love how this dress would be appropriate for so many occasions. It'd look adorable with heels or cute ballerina shoes, and a range of accessories. I'll do a post just based on me throwing together this dress, and maybe even one of me wearing it!

Double Breasted Waistcoat: Part One

I was sent a message from a customer about making a waistcoat from some reference photographs. It involved a double breasted style waistcoat made originally of tweed. I chose a similar fabric, but an alternative that is thinner and therefore cheaper. Keeping costs down for both myself and the customer has always been important to me.
Firstly, I studied the reference photos carefully. The waistcoat also has lapels, and two pockets. I used this information to come up with a whole new pattern draft, instead of adapting a previous one. I know that the chest measurement needs to be 40 inches, so the back piece needs to be 20 inches. This means that both front and back would need to be 10 inches wide plus seam allowance. Since this waistcoat is double breasted, the front piece needs to be extended by how much overlap we want, which in this case is 6 inches. The pattern looks like this:

The back piece is just the standard shape for the waistcoats, but the front piece is a lot more interesting. To work out the correct shape of the piece I drew the basic shape for a waistcoat front and then made the section to represent the lapel only. This then enabled me to get the correct shape and then attached it to the basic front.

After checking the pieces, I laid it out on the fabric and cut. The back piece was cut on the fold and the front piece was cut off the fold. Once cut, I laid the whole waistcoat out to check how it would look once completed. The button positions are taken from the original inspiration photographs and the pockets were added upon request. I'll likely move the pockets and make them a little bit smaller, and play around with the proportions and positions of things so it looks as close to the inspiration photographs as possible.

It's looking how I want it to, but I'm considering putting a facing on the lapels, to make them exactly the same as the rest of the waistcoat fabric. They are a slightly different colour due to being the 'wrong' side of the fabric.

Part Two to follow either later or tomorrow, then it'll be off to make a customer even happier, and even more well-dressed. Want your own? Contact me here: Ava's Apparel

How To Draw People (The Cheaters Way!)

Drawing people is one of the most difficult things to do, especially if you don't want them just stood there straight as a plank. I was recently taught this technique at college, and it's so simple!

Firstly, you need to find a magazine image of a pose that you'd like to recreate. Don't worry if it isn't perfect in terms of what you're after, since you can make adjustments once we get a bit further into the tutorial. I picked this image because it's sophisticated, which is how I wanted my models to come across.

Next, place a piece of tracing paper over the image, and just using lines, create the basic shape of the model. Use the centres of the limbs and circles to represent joints, then flesh out those lines to copy the models own outline. This is where you can thin out areas, bulk up areas, or change the pose a little. For example, you could move this models right arm to be on her hip too, just by moving the basic lines and then fleshing them out roughly. You might have to guess where the parts of the model are under the garments, but as long as it looks about right, it will work out fine.

Using another piece of tracing paper, transcribe just the outline of the model, along with any changes you've made. And you're done! Don't forget the head, not just the face so your models don't look pin-headed. This is also where you can stylise your models. I was using the designer Thierry Mugler to base my designs on and he uses tiny waists and broad shoulders, so I went from the image above, to this:

From here, you can then add clothing really simply, just like dressing up paper dolls when you were little! (Alright, so it might have just been me who had paper dolls, shush!)

Talk About a Delay

Well, it's been a while, hasn't it?

I've been disappearing all over the place trying to get things set up to become a qualified costumier. This means I've started college again, studying Fashion and I've been applying to uni like mad! Currently, I'm eyeing up Edinburgh universities after I spent a week there back in October and loved the place. I'd be studying Costume for Theatre, so everyone keep everything crossed that all goes to plan.
Within Ava's Apparel, I've been expanding into freelance work. I passed 50 Etsy sales this month too, which is a great milestone. Somewhere between freelance work and the Esty store I can maybe afford to go back to being self-employed soon which is fantastic news.

So, down to business. What is it that everyone would like to see next year from Ava's Apparel? How about more dresses? More waistcoats and menswear? Perhaps you'd even like to see some of the design side of my work? All suggestions will be considered, as I've got plans to go back to having both the time and the money to develop new garments and even some one-off pieces. I can't wait to hear what everyone comes up with.

I've recently been a little bit enamoured with the 1940's, mainly because my hair is now long enough to force into victory rolls and pin curls, so please expect to see a lot of that coming through in my work. Right, best get back to making!

Ten Reasons to Chose Ava's Apparel

1. I'm imaginative.
2. I'm really good at thinking outside the box.
3. I understand.
4. I love my job.
5. I have really quite useful contacts.
6. You're supporting a small business.
7. You'll be helping a charity too.
8. You'll be making dreams come true.
9. I'm dedicated.
10. You'd be greatly rewarded

 

Recent Happenings

Hello! I've returned after a very odd absence.

Over the next few weeks, several things are happening. I'll be visiting London next week and catching a show with Mother, along with harassing shops to try and buy my wares in a wholesale deal.
I'll also be trading in Cardiff on the 4th and 5th of August, offering a range of steampunk clothing and a couple of tutus and possibly even some jewelery. I'm ever-so excited as it's my first two day trading event and I'm holding it in high hopes. Who knows, might come home with no stock! I'd love it terribly much if that ended up being the case, but it is unlikely.

Also, a lot more importantly, I've found the perfect college course in Clothing and Costumes. Not an art course with fashion units, but a full and dedicated costumes course. Updates will remain sparse, but there will be photos a-plenty, I'm sure!

A Rainy Day Collection

Sorry this blog post has been a week or three late, real life keeps getting in the way of my blog and my etsy time!

I posted in my Etsy team about how it was raining for days straight where I am, and they gave me beautiful item suggestions. ItsSewLola even went as far as to suggest her treasury including a chunk of rainy day items! (click their name, it'll take you straight to the treasury!)


Kawaii Pouting Cloud Brooch with Teal, Green and Brown Wooden Bead Rain Drops

Pouty Face Cloud thinks you should buy him. I agree.

Letterpress Cloud Tags - set of 6

How sweet are these? Perfect for brightening someone else's rainy day!

Featured Etsy Store: Pop Tarts and Jelly

http://www.etsy.com/shop/poptartsandjelly

"We create beautiful, affordable wall art/paintings and hand made goods such as iPod Cozy's, Jewellery, Cushions and much more. We also accept custom orders."

This store has a picnic basket inside set for sale. 'Nuff said.

...

Just kidding. This shop is also a new one (cause I'm new-seller friendly!) and has Alice in Wonderland inspired art work, and only 3 sales! Go, every one, buy everything she sells!

It's lovely to see a starter shop with such good photos and descriptions, even if their titles are a little too direct about the item.

One thing I think is very important in the Etsy market place, is the policies that a stall gives its customers. I love reading policies. It's geeky, I know, but it gives me all I need to know about a shop and it's seller in one place. This store has a well-filled policies section, and even accept custom orders. They do a beautiful thing where you can request a shipping cost for a re-estimation of the cost, and they'll sort it for you! 

They opened the same day that I did, so I may be biased as to how awesome they are, so go and see for yourselves! 

Trading Recap: Jubilee!

Today I traded at RAF Waddington's Big Jubilee Lunch.
It rained. AND RAINED... and rained. We almost had to boat home. Here's a quick review of what happened, both good and bad:

The stall looked MASSES better than it did last time we traded. I think a lot of that is because of the sign. I wrote myself a list of ideas last time we traded, and I went through it and made a check-list for things to remember this time. I was a lot calmer this time, but that might have something to do with the fact it is Sunday and I am so terribly sleepy! We set up quite early, picked the tent right in front of where our car was parked and got everything out. Luckily, Chris packed the car in exchange for bacon, so that all worked out lovely! The weather was exactly how it was back in October last year, and we could see our breath every time we spoke! We shared a tent with a lovely lady selling PartyLight candle, so got to have a bit of a gossip.

Unfortunately, due to the weather, there was almost no passing trade. Not kidding, we saw about 10 people all day. It was mainly that due to the weather, everyone was bundled up and huddled inside the tents put up for eating, then deciding that after buggering about in the rain for an hour, that was enough, so they weren't checking out the stalls in the tents as much as they would have, had it been a nice day. The customers we did meet however, were lovely.

Overall, we decided that after only 4 hours of being there, it'd be best to pack up. We weren't getting customers, or even people just popping in to have a cheeky look. I did learn a couple of other things to do with setting up the stall and the best way to pack the car, but beyond that, it wasn't anywhere near as much as a learning curve as the first trading event.

This past 6 weeks hasn't been too bad on the private order front, which is great, along with the Etsy store starting to take of. Ordered some more fabric for spats, so they should be released in the next few weeks, depending on how things pan out with my job interview on Wednesday! (Don't get too excited, it's a shop job.)

Themed Collection: Ladybirds!

I love ladybirds. One of the first photographs I ever took was of ladybirds, and they are also one of Little Sister's favourite things. Since it was her birthday yesterday, I thought this would be a good theme for the first ever collection post that contains members of my Etsy Team:

Ladybird Painting

An original painting, which I really love. You see so many prints now a days and reproductions of work so to see and be able to buy an original is a great thing. This shop owner specialises in fine art and fine art prints, and offers not only ladybirds but landscapes, nudes, still life, you name it.

Ladybird Necklace

"Ladybird Ladybug necklace pendant. A cute charm made of polymer clay this little ladybird has popped out for some morning sunshine on a dew laden blade of grass."

Look at it's little spots! Ladybirds very much make me want to squee, especially this one. Reinforced in delicate places with wire, this is perfect for wearing every single day. This cute little ladybird is only roughly 1cm across, so not that much bigger than a real one! It's from a store that I have featured in the past, MadeByDozy, so if you go back and see what I wrote, there is a tonne more info about them!

Ladybird Buttons

Now, I can't think of any reasons exactly why you wouldn't want all the buttons on things you own replaces with these. I'm thinking about it right now! At just over an inch wide, these are perfect not only for using at buttons, but for general craft and even card making! This shop is full of buttons, and I've had to add it to my favourites since I think buttons are fantastic!

AND FINALLY:

Ladybirds Photograph

It isn't often I promote myself, but I'm really proud of this! :P

Featured Etsy Store: OfaLahi

http://www.etsy.com/shop/OfaLahi

Thank you for supporting hand made! Leather earrings, cards and mini journals for your pleasure. All items come from a smoke-free, pet free home.

Follow me on facebook, for your updates on products and for when I donate my first $50.00top to an artistic student in the island of Tonga :)

"OWL!" Little sister would inevitably scream. She has a pretty restricted vocabulary, but she's pretty damn good at spotting animals miles away! I love the simplicity of the card above, even if the background can make it tell where the card stops and the background begins! Luckily, the other photos on this particular listing help to identify exactly how beautiful this card, and the other listings in the shop, are.

With a feedback score of 100%, I have no idea why this store has only 22 sales! Another store with great policies, with extra options such as insurance on shipping and the chance for custom orders. 

I have many requests from people to feature their store, but I picked this one for a reason:

"Ladies and gentlemen update with the shop vision : When I hit 50 sales, I will be donating $50.00top to a primary school student in Tonga who is artistically inclined. From there I will be donating $50.00top after every 30 sales :) If you have a primary school in mind that you would like me to donate to, please let me know! :) Thanks every-one :)"

I support this cause whole-heartedly. It bugs the Hell out of me that there is no such thing as world-wide equal opportunity, and so this store really does help with that. Pop over, and show your support. Not only will you help the world a little bit, you'll get new things, and let's  face it: Everyone loves new things!

Featured Etsy Store: Pinkblossomcosmetics

http://www.etsy.com/shop/pinkblossomcosmetics

"Welcome! I hope you enjoy my handmade creations here. All my mineral makeup line is hand-crafted and custom blended with my own recipes.If you have any questions please send me a msg.

Like my Facebook page to stay up to date on how to win free mineral makeup and/or receive promo codes."

I love make up, especially make-up that thinks it's a galaxy full of stars. I hated make up until very recently, when my mother made a bargain with me that if she bought me new make up and I wore it, I could have the trainers I'd fallen in love with. Fair deal, when you look at it like that, I guess! I really love the uniformity of the shop, and how there is not only a gorgeous lead photo, but a secondary photo of how the colour looks on the skin. I always feel massively underwhelmed by eye shadows that promise the world and deliver none of it. 

"Pink Blossom Cosmetics minerals are multi-purpose, pigmented, and vibrant. Minerals are hand blended in small batches to give you the finest product. You can use them dry or foiled for an intense look. For best results use a primer. Why PBC’s minerals? All our mineral makeup is formulated without harmful ingredients such as bismuth oxychloride or talc which are known to cause allergy/sensitivity problems for some individuals. Also there are no fragrances, oils, dyes, or neon pigments in our mineral line. We only use FDA approved cosmetics. Minerals will not clog pores, water resistant, does not support bacteria, all natural because it’s made with minerals. A little goes a long way!"

This is all fantastic news, as make up needs to be of fantastic quality since you put it on your face (It's late, shurrup!). I would happily make a purchase after being informed of the ingredient types they use, as even though this particular shade is a gorgeous colour, I wouldn't want anything massively processed on my skin. 

With a small chunk of feedback, all positive of course, this seller knows their field very well, which is really encouraging from a buying point of view. To further ensure great customer service (which is VERY important when buying from a handmade business/seller) this seller has a filled in Policies section that most shops could take example from. Offering direct advice on everything from shipping times on average through to a reasoned exchanges policy, I'd feel perfectly comfortable using this seller myself (and just might once my own Etsy page takes off properly!)

Pop over, make yourself look gorgeous, and you never know, one day when this owner is mega-famous for their cosmetics, you can gloat you knew about them before they were cool!

Getting Ready to Trade

I am getting back into this whole blog thing, which is good as it's helping me keep track of everything!

This weekend we are trading at a Jubilee craft fair, and I am very excited. Nowhere near as nervous as I was for Leeds Steampunk Market. So far I've revamped the labels for the stall, and decided exactly what other than my steampunk stuff will be going on to the stall. Mother has kindly made me some tutu's which should be popular.

When I get ready to trade, I always make sure I do a before and after to do list, and make sure there is one in my car and one in the house/workroom. That means that I know exactly at any point what's happening and I can keep a track of what I've done and what I haven't. I've filled the book with ideas from the last market, so I do things like remember to take the sign with me and remember to pick the paste table up and remember to clean my car out afterwards and all those other jobs I hadn't even thought about last time!

We're taking the large mannequin and one of the large, costume outfits to essentially get us some attention! I'll be equipped with jewellery kits and prices for lessons, mainly. I am trying to get 3 or 4 more people to take lessons, as I do love teaching people to sew since I love it so much. It makes me very, very happy!

I'll no doubt review it and take a load of photos whilst I'm trading etc, so you'll all get to see how I get on!

Featured Etsy Store: RRAUW

http://www.etsy.com/shop/rrrauw

"Handmade products made from leftover and recycled material. From papergoods and stationery to accessories. I also sell graphic design and illustrated products."

Now, I love maps, and other recycled paper products of interest. Almost everything I've bought on Etsy is either a card for someone I love or jewellery! 

This shop really does have a good range of bits and pieces from necklaces to envelopes, and it's fantastic to see such a diverse list of products all running on the same theme of recycled and upcycled things.

Considering they currently only have one sale under their belt, and as far as i am aware this is the first time they have had an Etsy store, they have a very direct set of policies. Not in a shouty, mean, bad way like some shops, but in an informative and useful way which really encourages me to recommend them. Shopping without knowing where you and the seller stand can be a painful experience, so I love seeing well-filled-out policy pages.

Their policies reflect their general earth-friendly ethics and they are written in a lovely, chatty tone which really do add to the experience of making a purchase from them. The owner is well-spoken and a pleasure to hear from, which is ALWAYS a bonus.

Not got any idea what to get your friend for their birthday? Try this shop.

Featured Etsy Seller: MadeByDozy

http://www.etsy.com/shop/MadeByDozy

"All of the items are designed and hand made by me from polymer clay. Within the contents of the shop I have tried to incorporate both sides of my personality, the light and the dark.

The light side is the one that loves to feed the birds, sit in the garden and just listen to nature or rummage through the seaweed strewn tide-line on the beach for hidden treasures, embracing the inner hippie chic. 

The dark is my attraction to the world of fantasy, whether it be a great vampire story, the hypnotising qualities found in the curves of a skull or immersing myself in gaming, a good film or series, the dark side definitely indulges my quirkiness."

Couldn't have summed it up much better than the store has in it's opening header! With a small number of very lovely items, this store just screams adorable. I love the bracelet in the photograph above, and how it's beads are all different and all so gorgeous. I have a bit of a penchant for purple at the moment.
The store it's self has no policies so far, but I think it's more or less along the lines of most other Etsy stores, and the feedback the store has been left is nothing less than glowing which is always a beautiful sign.
After being an Etsy member since December 2011, this store and seller is definitely one to watch and one to shop with! I'd be quick about it if you like that bracelet though, before it finds it's way to my house.

Featured Etsy Store: YankeeDimess

http://www.etsy.com/shop/YankeeDimess

"Custom wedding hair accessories, bridal hair clips, hair bows, baby headbands, hair clips, fascinators, flowers for hair. I welcome and encourage custom orders!! All handmade by me :) "

Picked this young lady from the Team for being featured, and partly because I miss my hair being crazy colours too. I used to hate fascinators and the like, what with having short hair, but I've recently regained a love for them. What can I say, I just like looking fancy!

Custom orders are taken on all items, so you can change stuff up (I love it when shops offer altered versions of their stuff.) and hidden in the policies of the shop, the owner has a lovely little detail about not needing Paypal to purchase from her. The returns policy is also really good, which impresses me because often new sellers forget that they need to consider things like that. 

With only 3 sales so far, this store is well worth a look!

Featured Etsy Shop: Welsh Dragon Ware

http://www.etsy.com/shop/WelshDragonWare

"Beautiful glass tile pendants, key rings and easy-on-your-wallet earrings in stock!"

On a bit of a jewellery theme today, I have no idea why. Stumbled upon this store after they followed me on Twitter (I love snooping about on those who follow me!) and I'm really glad I did. I love elegant jewellery, especially ones involving stones.
I chose to feature the pair in the photo above as they are really pretty, I love the contrast between the pointy pieces of stone and the smooth curves of the beads.
They accept many forms of payment which is refreshing as many new stores seem to religiously only accept PayPal. If you check out their feedback, they are known for their quality and speedy shipping, which is ace since no-one enjoys waiting for things they've bought online. Happily, custom orders are available. It is also interesting to note that they can use your own personal art work to create custom and one off designs, all they need is the details and consent of the original artist! How cool is that!
The seller is a Welsh university student, studying English, and often uses pages and books in their work which is a very difficult thing to do well, and they pull it off wonderfully. They also have a range of other talents, including photography and horse-riding, so they are definitely not your average one-trick-pony! (no? no laughs at all? fine, I'll stop it.)

They are definitely worth a look, even just to oggle more of their gorgeous earrings!

Other New Stores: Ashley Ann Jewelry

http://www.etsy.com/shop/AshleyAnnJewelry

"Eco-Friendly Hemp bracelets, necklaces, and anklets here! 
All jewelry is handmade by the shop owners - Ashley and Holly (Ann). We specialize in hemp jewelry and hope you will take the time to look around. If you have any questions, please feel free to send us a message and we will get back to you promptly. As of now, we are not taking special requests as we settle in, but we will update you when we are ready to take them."

I found this lovely shop through the forums, on a request for people to shout up if they have a new shop. I love ecofriendly shops and products, it's why I do my small range of tote bags on my own Etsy Site. It's quite rare to see a jewellery shop that is concerned with how friendly it is the environment, but this shop really is great when it comes to that. The prices are fantastic too. Some sellers think they can just tack on the terms eco-friendly as and when they feel like it, but these gals seem really committed to it.
They offer a range of bracelets, anklets and key chains, so a good mix of stuff but it's a really easy to follow and succinct shop to look at and a pleasure to browse. Within their policies, they state that they are happy to replace items if you are unhappy with, which is fantastic as returns can be a tricky subject.


So there you go, one new up-and-coming shop to check out. I think these little items would be perfect as gifts as they are so easy to just slip into a little bag, and hand over.  

Hop! Hop! Hop!

Remember the Ava's Apparel rabbit, Crust? Well, sadly, she passed away on Thursday. However, she has been followed by a gorgeous little boy bunny, who looks like a reincarnated version of Freddie Mercury. Not kidding, he even has a moustache. In light of this new arrival and the soft pitter-patter of bunny feet on our floorboards, I thought another featured Etsy post would be in order with the theme of bunny love!

Easter Bunny Pendant

So this is just the single most adorable thing. I don't particularly like animal themed jewellery but this pendant is so sweet, I like the little heart to the left. It reminds me of when Crust used to sit on her back legs and look all annoyed because we weren't fussing her!

Printed Bunny Bag

 I absolutely love handbags. I have so many, and the majority of them were purchased because they were either cute or stylish, and this bunny bag is both! Look at it's cute little nose! I love bags that look like things, and this bag has adorable ears just like Freddie the new bunny!

Blue Bun Plush

Just, oh, it's so... <3 (I did a little squeal when I first saw it, and I don't know how to spell a word in a pitch only dolphins can hear!)

Bunny Earrings

This is exactly how Freddie's ears go. God bless his little half-lop genetics! I love these earrings with their lazy ear (that's it's technical name, honest!) and may have to be treating myself to a pair over summer!

And Lastly:

http://www.etsy.com/shop/MoonsCreations?ref=seller_info

An entire shop of knitted bunnies. I did have one set I liked, accidentally buggered up the web address so clicked the whole shop, and realised that almost *ALL* these items are squee-worthy! 

So that's it, my round up of some of my favourite bunny themed items, now I am going to have a snuggle. Freddie can't complain, I'm bigger than he is! :P

Phew, and relax!

Well, it's been a while hasn't it?
Sewing really is getting in the way of things and I love it! started a brand new Etsy store in the middle of April, so thought I'd use my first post back on the blog to feature some of the lovely wares I've found on my travels! (this might become a weekly instalment, who knows!)

Pinkie Pie Hat

Made by a friend of mine, this pinkie pie hat is adorable. I have a white wolfkin hat and Little Sister will soon have a panda one, after she stole mine and wouldn't give it back!

Portal Poster

During my absence I've been thinking a lot about Portal, even including some Portal bits in the new Etsy store. This print is lovely to look at, and not quite as brash and in your face as many of the other typography prints that you can find online. It, unlike the cake, is not a lie.

Large Owl Bag

Little sister ADORES owls, and shouted at this bag when she was sat next to me, looking at me all wide-eyed and stuff, so it has to be worth a mention. I love that has an adjustable strap and is lined, since lined bags make everything easier. I like that it has a range of owls on it, not just the same 2 owls over and over and over.

Panda Wall Art

Let's face it, how could you not love this, it's such a cute panda!

Taking an Interest

I love sewing and fabric, more than anything else in the world ever. I mean, I even have a board on Pinterest just based around pictures of adorable fabric. But it occurred to me that I should try and include things in my life that aren't ALL sewing based or reading based. I do some design work, but that's only because it runs along side my desire to get into college in September.

This has got me thinking about my friends and the activities they take part in which I could tag along to. My choices are exercise classes, LARP and re-enactments. Exercise classes are out, due to having wonky knees that often try to bend into funny directions when I exercise properly. RE-enactments involve lots of expensive kit and travelling. I love travelling, but along with expensive kit and not a great interest in history, I don't think re-enactments are for me.

Now, LARP. Where to start with LARP. I went once with boyfriend, just to humour him and I wasn't too sold on it. I liked that there was a sense of team work, but I'm just not that into fantasy things. However, I have always encouraged him to keep going and to make new kits and things, and I often hunt down new events. Through a friend, I found an online directory of UK LARP events, and there was a post-apocalyptic event. Now, that sounds more my thing! According the stats on my xbox live account, I've spent almost 500 hours on Fallout 3 and New Vegas, so that event would be right up my street. Going to look into a bit more today, and see what I can sort out!

Hopefully, it'll be really good and then that'll be my non-sewing hobby, but if not, the search will continue! What hobbies do you guys, my readers, have that isn't sewing?

Sewing: Demon Skill

So, I found a beautiful dress on Pinterest the other day. It was the most stunningly gorgeous thing I had ever seen. I don't often fall head over heels for inanimate objects, especially clothes, but this was just perfect. It was also more than £100.

... then I remembered that I can sew.

For less than £20, I made almost exactly the same dress, in the right length, with the right proportions for me and I adore it more than I did the first dress. I've impressed myself.

The fact I can sew just saved me £80+ and that is perfectly fine by me! Photos of the me-made dress can be found here.

Ahhhhh, fashion!

I'm going for an interview to get onto a fashion course at the end of next month. I thought I'd better get some proper, on paper qualifications if I'm ever going to end up a costumier one day!

It's involving a lot of odd things. The interview task is 3 line drawings of fashion objects that are not clothes and one tonal drawing of another non-clothing fashion item. So far, I've drawn my top hat/goggles as one line drawing, and my favourite Doc Martens as another. I'm not entirely sure on what my plan is for the other pieces of work, but I'm sure I'll have some amazing idea soon.

On another note, I have no idea what to wear. Thinking about making myself something to wear, a red and white polka dot fifties dress, to be exact. I think that, coupled with well styled hair and some classic black, heeled court shoes should be just about perfect for the interview for college, and for interviews for jobs as well. Also, I wanted an excuse to make myself something for a change so that fits in quite nicely.

What's on my sewing desk!

Someone suggested it'd be helpful to know what lives in my sewing box. I don't have a box as I have a work room where it all lives, so here's what lives on my sewing desk:

• Order book: I like to keep this close to my heart, as it really does keep my organised. It's bulging with receipts for postage and fabrics along with post it notes as to things I need to remember to buy and all sorts of other bits.
• A biscuit tin full of bobbins: It's a lot easier to just reach over to my tin than set up a new bobbin for the under thread. Every colour thread I get I also sort out three or four bobbins with the same colour on it, so I don't waste time having to re-thread!
• Plans for patterns: Future projects are always within arms reach!
• A drink: My God, sewing can be exhausting, and a nice cold drink or a cuppa tea fixes everything!

The Next Few Weeks in Projects...

The next few weeks holds a few new adventures for me.

Releasing a range of cotton, Summer 1950's swing dresses (via Ava's Apparel), which is gonna take up a chunk of my time. I think I'm just going make a load then put them up for sale, instead of just taking orders. Orders on them will still be available, but they will be available off the peg too.

I teach a lovely lady how to sew once or twice a week, and we're making a set of Roman Blinds. This is very much an adventure as neither of us have made them before. Well, not very well or with any great amount of success! I'll probably update on that as we go, as it'll take several weeks to complete. Who'd of thought it, a dressmaker working on curtains!

Orders are always being taken by myself at Ava's Apparel for waistcoats, skirts, dresses and more!

Why Big Businesses Pick on Small Ones

Yesterday I witnessed as a big business bullied a smaller business owner to the point of tears, all because one of the small business' photographs looked similar to one of theirs. Now, this got me thinking about two things, how to conduct yourself during a business dispute and how to avoid them in the first place.

In this case, the fans and owners of the big business harassed the smaller one via every possible channel, even on the Facebook walls of both businesses concerned. At one point, it even got hugely personal against the owner of the small business, which isn't fair. I had always thought that if you have a problem with someone else or something they are doing, you take it up with them, not make slanderous comments at their expense? I thought as you got older you got past being so childish. My advise here if you happen to be on the receiving (or giving) end of a business dispute, be discrete about it. You are more likely to get a result by dealing with things calmly and sensibly and not by slagging people off.

Secondly, avoid disputes where possible by adding disclaimers to your work. If you know that a certain business offers a similar piece of work or a similar service, add a disclaimer that this is YOUR work and any similarities are purely coincidental. Also on your photographs, add a watermark which you can add for free on websites like FotoFlexer. That way, you know the photographs and the work within them are yours. Some underhand businesses and individuals will try and steal your photographs, this works as a good deterrent.

Knowing the right people.

I've noticed in the last few days of working slowly and winding down properly from trading, sometimes knowing the right person is the only thing making you successful or not.

Knowing the market and people within it is important. Take notice of what other people around you are selling. Use the internet to find businesses similar to yours and see if you can work with them or use them for inspiration. Don't just outright steal their ideas though, it is like stealing their child (because that's often how much people care for their ideas).

Knowing the customer. I've heard of people carrying around items for months on end, even years, before they sell them. I try and work with commissions a lot, as I can make sure that the item suits the customer spot on. This is virtually impossible when trading in the real world. The moral is, don't be disheartened if it takes you ages to sell something, but be pleased that you did keep it long enough for someone who really likes it to buy it.

Utilise the people you know, they may have more skills than you expect, and networking is a really good way to learn more about business itself. I'm sure my friends who are self employed and can make things are sick of me questioning them!

Plus size 1940's dress

I can't remember if I mentioned my plus size customer who really wanted a 1940's tea dress, made in alternative fabrics? Well, here are some photographs of the finished dress.

It was made from a pattern drawn up by myself after measuring the customer. We did a quick mock up using a piece of waste cotton, to check the fit and decide on tucks and things. She decided to stray away from the iconic 1940's halter neck style, in favour of more support by choosing straps instead. This made no real difference in terms of design. the bodice is made of four panels, one at the front which is shaped to cover the chest and the back panel is elasticated with elastic shearing put there so it's easier to put on.

It is in a gorgeous print, photos of which can be found using the link in the first paragraph. It was the first plus size and first 1940's dress and it was a pleasure to work with. More in many sizes and patterns can be ordered via the Ava's Apparel facebook page, or via the business email and prices start at £40.

www.facebook.com/avasapparel

avasapparel@hotmail.com

Pattern Design

A customer recently approached me in view of making a plus size Vintage themed alternative dress for her. I don't have many (if any) patterns for plus size dresses, and vintage style dresses don't always come in plus sizes due to the teeny-tiny nature of the original 1940's lady!

I decided to use an existing pattern I had and adapt it to fit the young lady. Now, when adapting a pattern or when unsure on whether the fitting will be correct, the best thing to do is to create a scrap fabric mock up. This allows you to easily check the fit of the garment without wasting the fantastic fabric you've got for the final product. It also means that if you are making your own pattern, adaptations can be made at this stage. I can not stress the importance of making a mock up out of scrap fabrics, it is so very VERY useful.

I'm going to draft a vague pattern of the dress onto some fabric tomorrow, some fabric salvaged from a project gone awry. Pictures will follow, and will be posted over at Ava's Apparel. Also starting a secret project soon!

A Quick Survey

Here at Ava's Apparel, I really value my customers opinions and suggestions. I have recently ( in the last half hour) released a very short survey just to test the waters for some new items! Whether you've bought from me before, plan to, or are just in this for the reading material, please take a look at the survey below and fill it out:

http://kwiksurveys.com?s=LOEMMN_13c04f6f

As usual, any queries can be emailed to me, or left in the comments. Thank you all in advance.

Leeds Steampunk Market Review!

As many of you most likely know, this weekend was my first time trading publicly. It was at the Leftbank centre at Leeds, and was a specific steampunk market set up by the wonderful Dr Geof. It was a lovely venue and held about 30 different stalls along with the travelling tea museum and a chance to join the First Tea Company, also headed by Dr Geof.

We set up really early which made us massively grateful for the fact we'd organised to stay over in Leeds the night previous to the market, and after the market as well. In future, when we do all day events we will be booking another place to stay to accommodate for how exhausted we were! Our stall looked a little bare as we had nothing really to put on the table as my clothing hangs on a hanging rail. We also forgot our massive sign for the front of the stall and a table cloth. Luckily, one of our good friends was on hand to lend us a table cloth so our table looked presentable. Everything started quite steady, with customer shaving a good browse. We noticed quickly that customers tended to just scan the tables whilst walking past, in stead of stopping to browse through a rail. This provoked us to take some stock off the rail and place it on the table, which definitely encouraged customers to have a good look at what was on offer to them with us. Smaller items sold very well, so more of those will certainly be made along with a new range of things made from the research done at the market by myself. I spent an hour of the market just sat brainstorming, taking notes on what I thought would be good ideas for the stall in future. I also drafted out an idea or two for how to make the stall look more interesting! After 6 hours trading, we were losing hope on selling anything big (as that would have been a major milestone for me) until just before we decided to pack up, when a young lady came and bought a bustle skirt! I was thrilled, but managed not to squeal with happiness at the poor girl!

Overall, it was a really worthwhile thing to have done. We learned so much, didn't make a crazy amount of money but then didn't expect to, and best of all, I spent the day drinking tea doing something I love with the people I like the most.

Tips for the future:

• Bigger sizes (apparently, not everyone is a size 12, who'd have thought it? Mistake on my part, massively!)
• Men's and women's waistcoats in the same materials.
• Smaller items of interest for the table.
• Not to forget the signs!

Simple Bustle Skirt Tutorial

For those of you who read my simple skirt tutorial a few posts ago, it's time to go one step a little bit more Steampunk! Firstly, use these instructions along side the simple skirt instructions as they supplement each other.
The first method to create a bustle is to put in pleats down the side and along the tops of the skirt. This can be done by making the back panel of the skirt much longer and wider than you would like it to end up. Starting at the top of the skirt back panel, create pleats about 2 inches across, then one large one in the center of the back. Pin these in place, and add two or three pleats at the side seams, as shown in the diagram below.

.

Fantastic art work, eh? Once these pleats have been pinned into place, sew one side seam by placing right sides together of the front panel and your pleated panel, and then do the same with the waistband. make sure that the waistband is attached to both skirt panels and has caught all of the pleats in the stitching. Then fold the skirt back on itself and follow the instructions for the simple skirt on how to install the zip and finish the skirt.

The second method is to create two more layers of fabric and ruffle them, and place them between the skirt and the waistband. Cut two long rectangles of fabric out. They need to be shorter than the skirt, and the second one about 2 inches shorter than the first, creating a tiered effect. Round off the ends of the rectangles and hem. Now, using large stitches, sew across the top edge of the rectangle (the one that is still straight). Keeping hold of the bottom threads, ease the fabric into even ruffles until it is roughly the length to reach from one hip, around your bum and to the other. DO the same with the other rectangle. Position the longer ruffle onto the basic skirt back panel (or just the back if you've used the fold method to make the skirt) and then the shortest ruffle on top of that, all the right way round. Pin together about 4 inches from the top, then place the right side of the waist band against the right side of the skirt and ruffles. Once again, when stitching, make sure that all the layers are caught by the stitches. Again follow the instructions on how to finish the skirt using the simple skirt tutorial in an earlier post!

So there you have it, two easy and quick ways to make yourself a little bit more Victorian-looking. I'd love to see how your attempts turn out, in both long and short skirts!

McCalls Pattern 8616 Review

This is one of the first patterns that I have purchased from eBay. I wanted to adapt the pattern to make myself a suitable outfit for when we are at trading events as I have been given the advise that dressing up and looking smart can sometimes be the difference between getting a customer and not. I have assembled one other jacket before (remember the Simplicity pattern I reviewed with the floor length jacket?) so had some sort of vague idea as to what I was doing.

The pieces were a little difficult to understand in terms of which one you needed, as there were several different sized collar pieces on the pattern paper which all were in fact labelled, just in smaller print than I am used to. Be wary of this when using the pattern. The pattern came with two sheets of instructions, and they were reasonably detailed. The usual amount of technical knowledge is needed, but nothing too difficult or specialist.

The skirt is made as a basic skirt would be, using different panels then being adjusted to fit the waistline. If you have any previous knowledge of making skirts, then you will be able to easily follow the guide for this skirt. The jacket has optional lining, which was an advantage to me as I only wanted a quick and simple project for an afternoon, possibly to line it at a later date when I had more time/the inclination to line! It is a lovely shaped jacket which is nice and fitted but this look is achieved by using several panels. It can get a little confusing as to what goes where, but nothing that can't be handled if you follow the instructions.

The final jacket is a gorgeous piece, it fits nicely and wasn't too much of a faff about to make. All in all I would recommend this pattern, and photographs of my finished jacket will appear here soon, most likely!

Multitasking.

When I'm sewing, I love to be able to get those other little jobs at the same time. These jobs range from cooking for our evening meal using a slow cooker, or just styling my hair. My mother is the world's leading advocate for slow cookers, giving them some form of praise every single they. If you have a family and often fit in sewing into gaps between sorting kids out and tidying up after every guest you've ever had who all decided to turn up in one go, a slow cooker can be a life saver. Just chuck in the ingredients like vegetables and meat and leave it whilst you potter about, and sew to your hearts content!

My other favourite activity to run along aside is curling or braiding my hair. Pin curls are currently cluttering up my head, and its lovely to put them in when starting the project, make some beautiful project and then look fabulous afterwards! It also helps keep your hair out of your face! There are many available tutorials for pin curls around on the internet and one summed up here:

• Starting with wet hair, section into inch squares.
• Turn into a circle from the end of the section of hair towards your head. The bigger the circle you start with, the looser the curl. Keep turning until you've curled your hair up to the root.
• Place the curl flat on your head, and secure with pin curl clips or bobby clips.
• Repeat for the whole head, and leave to dry.

It can take hours to dry. I have less than shoulder length hair and it takes mine about 3 hours to dry but luckily, pin curls can be slept in pretty comfortably. All this vintage themed talk has inspired me to design a swing dress in red, and a black underskirt!

Finding Unique Parts and Fabrics

I often like to make only a few items of clothing out of a length of fabric to encourage variety in the range which I create. This variety can be hard to find in high street shops since they all stock a similar range of fabrics and buttons. Don't take that as a declaration to condemn all shops which stock regular fabrics, as they can quite often get fabric in for you, or send you in the direction of that difficult to find colour of silk or that particular style of buttons.

There is however a lot to be said for thrift and charity shops. I have found many beautiful items of clothing that not only would I happily wear, but more importantly that I can steal the buttons off. Prices are by nature low and often it's worth buying a garment just to adapt or take things off of it. Be careful though that even though some beautiful lengths of fabric may be available in thrift and charity stores, be mindful that the amount they have is IT. There will most likely be no restock of that fabric, so make sure for definite that there is enough to complete the project you want.

Often, auctions can also hold the answer if you are looking for unusual fabrics and parts such as buttons. They can also be the key to finding new inspiration and ideas, and often vintage clothing. You can find specialised clothing auctions on line and by contacting local auction houses. Bargains do appear quite frequently but don't get too carried away by pretty things!