The first method to create a bustle is to put in pleats down the side and along the tops of the skirt. This can be done by making the back panel of the skirt much longer and wider than you would like it to end up. Starting at the top of the skirt back panel, create pleats about 2 inches across, then one large one in the center of the back. Pin these in place, and add two or three pleats at the side seams, as shown in the diagram below.
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Fantastic art work, eh? Once these pleats have been pinned into place, sew one side seam by placing right sides together of the front panel and your pleated panel, and then do the same with the waistband. make sure that the waistband is attached to both skirt panels and has caught all of the pleats in the stitching. Then fold the skirt back on itself and follow the instructions for the simple skirt on how to install the zip and finish the skirt.
The second method is to create two more layers of fabric and ruffle them, and place them between the skirt and the waistband. Cut two long rectangles of fabric out. They need to be shorter than the skirt, and the second one about 2 inches shorter than the first, creating a tiered effect. Round off the ends of the rectangles and hem. Now, using large stitches, sew across the top edge of the rectangle (the one that is still straight). Keeping hold of the bottom threads, ease the fabric into even ruffles until it is roughly the length to reach from one hip, around your bum and to the other. DO the same with the other rectangle. Position the longer ruffle onto the basic skirt back panel (or just the back if you've used the fold method to make the skirt) and then the shortest ruffle on top of that, all the right way round. Pin together about 4 inches from the top, then place the right side of the waist band against the right side of the skirt and ruffles. Once again, when stitching, make sure that all the layers are caught by the stitches. Again follow the instructions on how to finish the skirt using the simple skirt tutorial in an earlier post!
So there you have it, two easy and quick ways to make yourself a little bit more Victorian-looking. I'd love to see how your attempts turn out, in both long and short skirts!
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